Binsar - District Almora, Uttaranchal
HASL - 7,913 feet (2,412 meters)
Temp. - 15°C - 4°C in winters
When - Peak of winters; towards Nov. - Dec.
If a mountain drive through thick growth and a bit of demanding uphill drive through what is not exactly road for a stretch, chill-to-the-bone winters, and don’t-want-to-do-much-else does for you, then count Binsar in.
You could almost fault Binsar for being quiet, alone, lone – any and all – and yet deeply like it for the same. For us Delhities raised on ample dose of Shimla for a winter getaway, your first trip could actually be unsettling. The only distraction it gives way to is the zero point which, only a clear day, provides you frontal views of the Nanda Devi, Trishul, Kedarnath and Badrinath peaks. While the view is akin to something on the horizon, it’s one of the few places to offer this. But more than this, the prize is the sunrise. The light spreads through the clouds in multiple hues of oranges, red, and yellow that lends to almost a transcendental experience. Though all of it is over in minutes, the fact of one standing completely wrapped up in near-zero temperature and braving chilly winds to watch the panoramic view unfold like that is perhaps not completely describable here. You just have to be there.
That apart, Binsar is said to be a veritable goldmine for birdwatchers. And that is quite believable given the absolutely thick growth. Even without a discerning ear, you will hear some peculiar chirp not entirely heard in the plains. But of course, this is a leisurely activity. There is also talk about a leopard that does the round and his cave.
As you move from Almora to Binsar, the temperature changes noticeably that owes not only to the difference in height (Almora is ~5,400 feet) and the steep climb, but to the dense growth of pine and oak that cuts you off from the city. The winding roads will lead you to an entry barrier about 15 – 20 minutes before you reach the KMVN guest house. If memory serves me, the barriers prohibit entry after 6 PM. On the hills, night comes pretty soon, more so in winters, and you don’t want bears for company. So much so that the windows at the KMVN guest house were covered with a lohay-ki-jaali.
Binsar is a bit less advertised and therefore less crowded. But that doesn’t mean you may find a bed during the season. When I went back in 2008, there were only three places to stay – Club Mahindra at the top end, the Mountain Resort at the mid, and the KNMN guest house for the budget traveler. While we were on a budget, KVMN is also a place that will accommodate you without a booking – it is really big. And you have to believe this – it does not have electricity! Yes, you read me right. The rooms have wooden flooring and candle light, which lends almost an old-time-royal touch to it. And don’t miss the view from the terrace. In peak winters, no amount of mittens and wrapping up does. Despite being all padded up, we needed three blankets. For those with a less tolerance for chill, advisable to carry brandy – I don’t remember a doc there and if you are driving, u want to warm to be able to drive back. And truly, you can’t enjoy the mountain, snow, and chill if you are not up to it.
The route from Delhi is the same you take for Nainital. This goes through Ghaziabad, Hapur bypass (don’t enter Hapur city on any account), Garhmukteshwar, Moradabad, Rudrapur, Rampur, Haldwani and to Kathgodam. From here, while the often taken route is through Jeolikot to Nainital and then to Bhowali, the problem is this Kathgodam-Nainital-Bhowali route is a bit longer and is almost a drive back from Nainital to Bhowali. You could either take the Kathgodam-Jeolikot-Bhowali route or the Kathgodam-Bhimtal-Bhowali one. From Bhowali, again, you could take the often treaded Bhowali-Khairna-Almora route or try Ramgarh-Sitla-Almora. If driving is your thing, the alternative routes are a welcome break. Once in Almora, remember to tank up for I don’t remember another pump on the way to Binsar. For Binsar, you have to take the road to Bageshwar and then take the right from Ayarpani.
The drive from Delhi to Binsar is between 400-450 KM depending on the route taken, and will take you about 12 hours by road. The speed lows down once you start driving on the kills from Kathgodam. Unless you are planning to halt in the middle and then reach Binsar during the day, start early – very early – in the morning.
Lastly, unless you are travelling in the summers, take a heavy stock of mittens. And if that doesn’t help, your Remy Martin / Hennesey will surely pull you through.
Godspeed. LAS.
